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travel / travel magazine / winter 2007

Steppin’ up (continued)

MAP: STEVEN FICK/CANADIAN GEOGRAPHIC
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By now, anyone living outside the tropics must know that Whistler will be part of the 2010 Winter Olympics, a fact that had posed unexpected problems for me. When curious friends asked what Canada’s winter playground was like, I never knew what to say, even though I’ve lived on the West Coast for nearly 15 years. The truth was, I hadn’t driven farther up the Sea-to-Sky Highway than Squamish. Whistler is another 60 kilometres north and could have been on the far side of the moon, for all I knew.

I had reasons to avoid Canada’s most popular alpine resort: I don’t downhill ski or snowboard. And I intend to be the last English speaker alive to use "party" as a verb. Most of my recent stereotypes of the slope-side Sin City had been gleaned from CTV’s melodrama, "Whistler." I learned that 1) bikinis remain a popular fashion choice, even in winter; 2) it’s dangerous to be a moody gold-medal snowboarder, who is not - the show’s lawyers repeat, not - based on local Olympic hero Ross Rebagliati; and 3) there are a few mountains nearby. I remained cold to Whistler’s decadent allure, but I do like snowshoeing. So when Savio and Guillaume Otis, the Québécois père et fils owners of Coast Mountain Guides, invited me to explore the real Whistler on foot, how could I say non?



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Before I headed into the mountains, however, I needed to get dipped in Ontario bog mud, layered in Saran Wrap and slowly braised. Aboriginal cultures around the world undergo purification rituals before ascending the sacred terrain above the treeline. The Extreme Muscle Relief Treatment at the Solarice Wellness Spa, I suppose, is the Whistler equivalent. It was also my last chance to sample the ski town’s luxe side before roughing it in the bush.

At the Delta Whistler Village Suites near the town’s bustling hub, I was pampered like a rock star and rubbed down like a thoroughbred. As a final touch in the hour-long treatment, the masseuse lacquered my back with Golden Moor Mud. "They say it’s the best in the world," she assured me. It certainly sounded exotic - more than, say, Ottawa Valley Swamp Muck, its actual source. Hot towels and a thin plastic sheet baked the oils, vitamins, enzymes and natural antibiotics into my skin and helped the magic mud, apparently, to exchange my ions, regenerate my cells and restore the balance of my misspent youth. When I stood up, my body felt positively deboned. I was ready for anything the mountains dared to throw my way.

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