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travel / travel magazine / winter 2007

Notebook

Québec at 400

Utopians and certain practical idealists we know, who dream of building a new community in the wilderness, understand that the first order of business is securing the right location. Geography, our respected colleagues at The Royal Canadian Geographical Society will tell you, matters a great deal. In early July 400 years ago, Samuel de Champlain sailed up the St. Lawrence River looking for a sweet spot to build a permanent settlement that he hoped would become the capital of New France. Where the river began to narrow, he observed a high promontory on the north bank that had once been home to the Iroquoian village Stadacona. Jacques Cartier had selected the same location in 1535 to build a short-lived settlement.

Like Cartier and the Iroquois before him, Champlain was taken with the location, which the Algonquin called kébec (“where the river narrows”). He realized that from the high bank, he could control traffic on the river and his lookouts could deliver early warnings of trouble coming.

Visit the city of Québec today, and you will see what Champlain, Cartier, the Algonquin and the Iroquois did all those centuries ago. The city rises to a breeze-freshened overlook and is surrounded by a verdant landscape. Cobblestone streets wind through the old town. Heritage buildings are flanked by historic churches, fortified walls, museums, art galleries and outdoor cafés. Cannons still point downriver. A boardwalk promenade beneath the peaked rooflines of the Château Frontenac offers a stunning view of the river.

For those who have never been, 2008 is the year to visit Québec. From the Carnaval de Québec, which runs Feb. 1 to 17, to the 400th anniversary celebrations planned for the summer, the city and region offer something for everyone: family outings, winter and summer sports, evening concerts, fabulous food and a peek into history. We sent Montréal writer Joel Yanofsky and his family to the Carnaval, which bills itself as the world’s largest winter festival, to experience Québec’s fabled hospitality, and Montréal food writer Maria Francesca LoDico to indulge in the city’s many culinary delights. Their stories are accompanied by shorter pieces on the city’s history, arts events, activities planned by aboriginal groups, and winter-sport outings all including calendars of 400th anniversary events.

Also in this issue: David Leach embarks on a spring snowshoe excursion in the mountains that lie just beyond the ski hills of Whistler, B.C.; Lisa Gregoire finds peace at a yoga retreat in Nelson, B.C.; Moira Farr embarks on a winter birding excursion in eastern Ontario; and Patricia Pearson travels to the Mexican art colony of San Miguel de Allende, where her grandmother once spent many happy winters painting.

By Rick Boychuk


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