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May 2010 issue

Rivers run through us
Wilderness guide and writer Bruce Kirkby goes with the flow down waters fast and friendly

LET’S START with the obvious: in a country blessed with thousands of wild and spectacular waterways, even a top-100 list would miss a few gems. And since everyone’s idea of the perfect river experience is different — from boulder-strewn Class V drops and remote Barren Lands expeditions to gourmet guided tours and lazy tire-tube floats — the rivers selected here are not so much a ranking as they are a sampling. There are a few classics, a few hidden jewels and a couple of tongue-in-cheek suggestions, which serve as a cumulative reminder of the unrivalled opportunities we Canadians have for watery adventures.

Firth River, Y.T. Winding through Ivvavik National Park, the Firth traverses an extraordinary landscape where mountains, tundra and the northern taiga forest swirl together. With challenging whitewater and stunning canyons, the river is most often experienced by raft. Endless hiking opportunities and 24 hours of summer sunlight yield excellent viewing of wolves, grizzly bears and muskox — and maybe the Porcupine caribou herd on its great migration.

Tatshenshini/Alsek, Y.T./B.C. These two grand rivers join halfway through their journey to the sea, and the Tat/Alsek watershed is a place of breathtaking beauty and abundant wildlife. A journey down either river is arguably among the most spectacular float trips on the planet. This land of bears, salmon, glaciers and icebergs was saved from the threat of copper mining in the early 1990s and is now part of an international UNESCOWorld Heritage Site.

Mountain River, N.W.T. Dropping from the Mackenzie Mountains, this lesser-known neighbour of the iconic Nahanni is a favourite of experienced northern canoeists. A spectacular wilderness run, complete with towering canyons, challenging rapids and high peaks, the Mountain River is usually navigated by canoe, but rafting trips are available.

Cowichan River, B.C. Known for its tubefriendly rapids and canyons, the easily accessible Cowichan on Vancouver Island also has plenty of lazy sections perfect for summer drifting and family hiking along the banks. Important caveat: safety should always be your main concern while tubing. Consider a guide if you’re unfamiliar with river travel — and never drink and drift.

Fraser River, B.C. The longest undammed river in North America, the Fraser carves a gigantic “S” across B.C., from its headwaters near Mount Robson until it reaches the Pacific at Vancouver. Dripping with goldrush stories, ranchlands and whirlpools, the Fraser has many faces. Thrill seekers can take a motorized raft trip through Hells Gate canyon, and visiting the Bridge River rapids (near Lillooet) at the height of the sockeye run is a staggering spectacle.

Milk River, Alta. Traversing the southern Alberta grasslands, the Milk passes through a landscape of hoodoos, sandstone canyons, towering cottonwoods and dry coulees. This relatively straightforward canoe trip (it’s class II at low water) is a great option for adventurous families or couples looking for a long-weekend getaway.

Fond du Lac River, Sask. Sandy beaches, granite and sandstone cliffs provide a gorgeous topography along the Fond du Lac in northern Saskatchewan. Expect few portages, gentle waters with some rapids, great fishing and the very real chance that you won’t see another soul on the banks.

Lady Evelyn, Ont. This small yet delightful river runs through the remote Temagami backcountry and reveals the rugged beauty of the Canadian Shield. By adding just a few portages, you can run a circular route — through clear lakes with great fishing — back to your car. Oldgrowth pine forests and plenty of waterfalls (even a natural waterslide) make the Lady Evelyn a canoeist’s paradise.

George River, Que. The George runs north all the way to Ungava Bay near the Labrador border. Set against the astounding history of explorers Leonidas and Mina Hubbard, a journey down the big waters of the George is a classic wilderness experience.

Magic Mountain, N.B. Come on — don’t be a snob. Admit it: water parks are a lot of fun! Whitewater thrills and lazy river floats abound at Moncton’s Magic Mountain. And the bonus? No packing, portages or bugs.
www.magicmountain.ca

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