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travel / travel magazine / may10

May 2010 issue


Notebook

Making waves

THOUSANDS of Canadians earn their livelihood by working on the water — fishing, patrolling, transporting, researching and guiding. But for most of us, travelling by water is a treat we get to enjoy only on our days and weeks off.


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Think back to your best summers as a kid: bodyboarding in the surf on Old Orchard Beach with your big brother; inner-tubing down Rivière Jacques-Cartier with your cousin; exploring the serpentine shoreline of Lac Mercier in an old green-red-and-grey Vercheres rowboat with a buddy, a bagged lunch and a beach towel. Getting out to play on a lake, a river or an ocean always notches up the summer from dry and dull to wet and wonderfilled.

The same holds true for us now grownups, even if the vessels are larger. Who but the most aquaphobic among us can resist that three-hour tour through the Thousand Islands, or a houseboating weekend on Shuswap Lake, or a cruise aboard the Fairview, leaving four times daily from Peake’s Wharf in Charlottetown?

There’s magic in exploring a place, even your own home turf, from an aquatic angle. Take it from James Raffan. Last August, he shoved off from a shoreline tangle of burdock and wild hemp, sliding his canoe into the current just north of his hometown of Guelph, Ont., and paddled solo down the Speed and Grand rivers to Lake Erie. The scenes he saw en route triggered long-lost childhood memories and poignant new connections with his ailing father. Touring by water, Raffan shows, can be a voyage of reflection and catharsis.

Or it can be a chance for a new adventure. Diehard surfer dude Lesley Choyce found this out when he traded his board for a sea kayak and took to the tidal shoreline around Nova Scotia’s Chezzetcook Inlet for a guided day tour. Tricky tidal timing set the schedule, but close encounters with cormorants and seals set the mood. It’s a mere half hour from his home, but a destination worthy of a cross-country journey.

And from across the country comes an island-hopper of a tale by Jim Sutherland, who picked up a BC Ferries equivalent of a Eurail pass and embarked on a game of culinary pursuit through the Gulf Islands, visiting farmers’ markets, seaside seafood cafes, organic wineries and artisan cheeseries. Taken all together, the stories in this issue have inspired a new all-Canadian motto: make waves while the ice melts.

Eric Harris





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