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In-depth
The Mackenzie Delta: The people
Relive Lisa's week long adventure in the Arctic as she ventures into new places, meeting new faces.
By Lisa Gregoire

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  CAPTION PHOTO: LISA GREGOIRE   

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Lisa's Journal
Thursday, August 17th, 2006
Moe Grant was a young Scottish adventurer when, during a romp through Canada in the mid-70s, she got tired of peanut butter sandwiches and decided to take a job as a cocktail waitress in Hay River, NWT. She found her way to Inuvik in 1975 and has been here ever since. She now owns a stationery shop, rents out commercial space and runs Midnight Express Tours on the Mackenzie River. She is four-foot-five and three-quarters and emphasizes the "three-quarters," when she tells me. She shops at Gap Kids, shakes hands like a man and drives a Toyota 4X4. I meet her at her store, Moe's Stationery.

Moe Grant from Inuvik.  
Inuvik offers opportunity for anyone who wants to work hard and get ahead, she says. "It's still a bit of a frontier town. It's still got a roughness to it, a sense of adventure." She proves it with a story.

"Despite high speed Internet and panini sandwiches, Inuvik is still just a human anomaly in a vast Arctic Wilderness."
A month before my visit, a black bear banged on a bedroom window in her house at around 4:30 a.m., woke a friend who had been sleeping there and prompted her to scurry upstairs to a portable phone. The bear popped the window off its runners, sent it flying onto the bed, unbroken, and then climbed in. A cub sought its own portal in the living room. The lumbering vandals nosed about for five minutes, broke a carving, and left. Despite high speed Internet and panini sandwiches, Inuvik is still just a human anomaly in a vast Arctic wilderness.


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The Project
Mackenzie Valley Pipeline
Environmental impact

The People
Lisa's journal
Afterword
About the author
Community profiles

Maps
Mackenzie Delta area
Oil & gas development

Photo Gallery
Explore the Mackenzie Delta
Inuvik is located 2° above the Arctic Circle.
Resources
Mackenzie Gas Project

Mackenzie Valley Pipeline (background on the Berger Report and the Pipeline)

Information on the Berger Pipeline Inquiry

Download the Berger Report

Canadian Arctic Resources Committee (maps and news releases)

The Pembina Institute (Environmental update)

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