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September/October 2007 issue


EXPLORER
 

Explorer

My wild night with George
George Street in St. John's is as much fun as you can cram in before dawn
By Russell Wangersky with photography by Greg Locke

Rooms with a view
If you tire of St. John's nightlife, you can always stretch your legs in the daylight. One flight of stairs up the hill is Duckworth Street, a main thoroughfare and the start of a number of walking tours, ranging from local architecture, Newfoundland women in history and a regular evening tour of noted St. John's hauntings. At the eastern end of Duckworth , past bright stores and tangles of restaurants, make a left turn along King's Bridge Road to the camel-backed Gower Street , with its dips and hills and rows of shoulder-to-shoulder three-storey Victorian houses. Head uphill on Cathedral Street (which becomes Garrison Hill and then Bonaventure Avenue) and you'll soon stub your toes on The Rooms, Newfoundland's $40 million museum complex, archives and art gallery. The Rooms sits on the site of Fort Townshend, an old British emplacement, and boasts the best bird's-eye view of the city to be found below Signal Hill.
It's a miracle of concentration: George Street in St. John's is just two blocks long - a mere 393 strides - but it boasts 41 bars and clubs and another 40 or so in the immediate vicinity, each with its own personality and customer base.

At the low numbers, you'll find the low-rent district. You can reach out and touch the cold, slick stone of the old post office, now a pool hall. There are a couple of strip bars across the street and some dance clubs and pickup bars on the next block.

Farther down the street, the stage at O'Reilly's Irish Newfoundland Pub is a great place to hear traditional and slightly bent Newfoundland classics. Stay the whole night, and the lead singer might come down and chat. There's the Fat Cat Blues Bar for live blues, and Lottie's Place, which prides itself on being the White Russian capital of Canada. And there's Sundance, a bustling bar that stretches on forever, with various wandering dance floors and decks that can accommodate up to 1,800 patrons.

George Street is the place where, on any given night, you might find a bridal party of 20 - short skirts and tiaras - unloading themselves from a stretch limo, each one kissing the driver a lighthearted goodbye, or knots of older people, looking half-lost and a little dazed, just out to hear some tunes. And then there are the conventioneers: on one warm June night, I was on George with the United Steelworkers, the Newfoundland and Labrador Association of Fire Chiefs and Firefighters, an offshore developers' conference and the Society of St. Vincent de Paul (they likely made it an early night). Oh, and there were the teachers - when school's out for the summer, it's not just the kids who let loose.

For the rest of this story, visit your local newsstand or go to our store to buy this issue.



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