 |
magazine / so06
 |
September/October 2006 issue |
|
|
 |
FEATURE
Narwhal hunters
Riding the floe edge, dining on
caribou eyeballs, waiting for narwhals. My week on
the land with the unicorn hunters.
Excerpt of story and photography by Margo
Pfeiff
In the dingy stockroom behind Toonoonik-Sahoonik, the
co-op store in Pond Inlet, Nunavut, squeezed between
pallets of soft drinks and disposable diapers, Chris
Mitchell hands me a narwhal skull. Protruding from a
heavy chunk of bone are two parallel ivory tusks as
long as pool cues. It looks to be the remains of some
fantastic prehistoric creature that appeared miraculously
from the toe of a receding glacier. Mitchell, the store’s
general manager at the time, punctures that vision.
"Someone shot it a year or two ago," he shrugs,
impatiently twirling keys around his index finger. "Dunno.
Twenty-five thousand bucks, and it’s yours."
I am not quite sure what to make of Mitchell’s blasé attitude
toward the rare narwhal double-tusker. The Arctic whale,
after all, has intrigued mortals to monarchs for centuries,
since its single ivory tooth was introduced as evidence
of the existence of unicorns. In the 16th century, a
narwhal tusk was worth the price of a castle. I have
encountered the sea creatures on previous trips to the
Arctic, the narwhals either frustratingly distant or
just metres away but shrouded in thick fog, their moist,
syncopated gasps surrounding me as if the ocean itself
were breathing.
For the rest of this story, visit your local newsstand or go to our store to buy this issue. top
|
 |
| ADVERTISEMENT |
|
|
 |
|