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September/October 2004 issue


MOSAIC

Bun stop
Photo: Richard Hartmier

Bun stop
Photography by Richard Hartmier

Eat a hubcap-sized cinnamon bun at Braeburn Lodge, and you’ll be at least one pound heavier and nearly a full cup of sugar sweeter. "Everything here is big," says head cook Leigh Knox. "The sandwiches and burgers are built for two. The regulars know to share."

The lodge — a collection of converted army barracks — is a favoured "tea and pee" stop for summer tourists travelling the Klondike Highway between Whitehorse and Dawson, Yukon. Over the winter, it serves as a checkpoint for the Yukon Quest sled dog race and a gas stop for truckers hauling supplies to Mackenzie Delta oil rigs.

The super-sized food isn’t the Braeburn’s only quirk. Folk icon Valdy once wrote the song "Cinnamon Bun Strip" about a runway across the road where bush pilots regularly land for buns and burgers. Rusted-out dump trucks and motorcycles clutter the backyard, and a pigpen serves as a natural garburator for restaurant scraps. Owner Steve Watson (above), who worked as a carpenter before "buying myself this job," may serve oversized dishes, but he’s about as understated as they come. How did his life change when he bought the lodge? He "became broke." What does he do when he’s not working? "Sleep." What’s the secret ingredient in the cinnamon buns? "Cinnamon."

Jodi Di Menna

For the rest of this story, visit your local newsstand or go to our store to buy this issue.


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