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magazine / so04
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September/October 2004 issue |
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FEATURE
Atlantic Salmon
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| Photo: Paul Nicklen |
Crosscurrents
As wild Atlantic salmon appear headed for extinction, production of the farmed variety is flourishing. But is it safe?
Excerpt of story by John Demont
The scenario goes something like this: you’re pushing a cart through a supermarket with
only a spouse’s airy missive to "try and make it something healthy" for direction.
Which in the year 2004, means you are in trouble. You make a beeline for a juicy strip loin,
then remember the images of mad-cow-afflicted cattle collapsing in palsied heaps. The pasta
shelf looms ahead, but that’s definitely out in this low-carb age. Forget dessert. It’s laced
with enough trans fat to make your heart swell like a hot-air balloon. Ah, the fish counter.
Your eyes are drawn to the moist orange steaks laid out temptingly on a bed of ice. You remember
the recent spate of newspaper headlines: farmed salmon = PCBs = cancer. But isn’t this stuff
supposed to be brain food? It’s also less than $7 a kilogram, for Pete’s sake. You point
a finger towards a couple of generous slabs, imagining yourself a few minutes later, lighting
up the grill, uncorking the Chardonnay. "Two of those," you say, "the big
ones."
For the rest of this story, visit your local newsstand or go to our store to buy this issue.
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