Lake Erie’s “dead zone”
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| Port Stanley, Ont., is known both for its beautiful beaches and its dirty water
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Port of pleasure and pollution
Port Stanley’s tourism sector struggles against Erie’s reputation
as a dying lake
By Angela Smith
The distinct smell of freshly cut fries mixed with sunscreen fills your nostrils. A warm
breeze carries the squawking of seagulls fighting over dinner. You dig your toes deep into
the coarse sand and look for a spot of shade among the colourful beach umbrellas fluttering
in the wind. Children run past you squealing in delight — pausing for a moment to
inspect a fly scurrying through the sand. Everything before you resembles a happy, healthy
vacation destination — until you see a red and white sign: “Advisory: High
bacteria levels often occur because of rough waters or heavy rainfall. Swim at your own
risk.”
With Lake Erie apparently “dying” for the second time in 30 years, should
communities along the shoreline fear for their livelihood. Many business owners in the
fishing village of Port Stanley don’t think so. The general consensus of the 2,385
people living in the port is that rain and clouds are much more threatening than zebra
mussels or high levels of bacteria in the water. Call it naiveté. Call it ignorance.
Or perhaps, call it optimism. Local fishermen, residents and business owners are not deterred
by any declaration of death in the lake — scientifically proven, or not.
The picturesque drive into Port Stanley bombards travellers with signs of a flourishing
lake. Restaurant signs advertising yellow perch dot the landscape. Tourists bustle down
the main streets carrying water toys and beach accessories. Boats chug along Kettle Creek
in search of a spot to dock. And fishermen drop their lines into the slightly murky water
eagerly waiting for a good catch. Tourism appears to be alive and well in the “Yellow
Perch Village” and locals wouldn’t have you think otherwise.
Stan’s Marina has been business as usual with 300 to 400 commercial and sport fishermen
passing through each weekend. Paul McNiece, of the full-service marina, said there used
to be many more fishermen in Port Stanley prior to the 1960s and 1970s when the lake was
first reported ill. Since then, Stan’s Marina reoriented itself toward recreational
activities (jet-ski rentals, for example) to make up for losses from the polluted waters
and lack of fish. Of the recent declaration of the death of Lake Erie, McNiece firmly says, “it’s
not helpful, but it’s not disastrous.” He believes Port Stanley is truly a
boater’s paradise.
Nestled quietly on a street corner not far from the marina is Bates Ice Cream Parlour.
The owner, 42-year-old Dale Bates, has been scooping ice cream for 11 years for tourists
visiting Port Stanley. Bates believes his family-owned business will not be affected by
claims that Lake Erie is deathly sick. “The beach is cleaner now than it ever was,” says
Bates, who has lived in the port all his life. He motions with his rugged hand to the sandy
beach only footsteps from his porch. “You never see dead fish on the beach anymore,” he
says, “except for the odd one.”
Regardless of the locals’ denials, Port Stanley tourism has changed. Prior to the
announcement of high phosphorous and bacteria levels in the late 1960s, the community was
strong enough to support a small casino, a train that shuttled patrons back and forth from
London, Ont., to Port Stanley, and many more stores. Today there are fewer attractions
in the village and if pollution in the lake takes the beach away there doesn’t appear
to be much that can save it.
The unpleasant reputation of Port Stanley seems to be spreading faster than locals can
counteract it. Residents of London, Ont., a city of 330,000 people a mere 43 kilometres
away, prefer to visit Grand Bend (a beach located on Lake Huron), which is an extra 25
minutes away from the city. Many believe Grand Bend is cleaner, but smog advisories there
are common and fish carcasses are have been known to lie on the beach. After storms, Lake
Huron becomes murky just like Lake Erie and unattractive green and brown blobs of algae
dot the water’s surface, forcing swimmers to use their hands to push through the
vegetation.
Some parents are now leery of taking their children to Port Stanley because it has become
taboo. “Everyone knows you’re a bad parent if you let your kids swim in the
water at Port Stanley,” comments Cheryl Lale, the current owner of Mackie’s,
a popular restaurant on Port Stanley’s beach since 1911.
“Is the lake in great shape? No,” says McNiece. “We know that. But
I disagree with the extent of the pollution.” He refutes Environment Canada reports
that deformities in various species of fish are occurring and that reproductive capacities
are decreasing. But he does admit that tourists complain about a lack of fish.
Environment Canada records do indicate a decline in yellow perch, but Bates thinks otherwise. “They
[scientists and researchers] are so wrong. I have friends who are fishermen down here and
they’re doing the best fishing ever. Port Stanley fishermen have raised their quota
by 45 percent this year … how would that be possible if Lake Erie was dying?”
Still, Environment Canada reports that the lake is slowly deteriorating due to the impact
of non-native species, changes to various habitats and contamination by toxic chemicals.
Numerous documents examine the exploding population of zebra and quagga mussels on the
bottom of the Lake, which disrupt the ecosystem. It’s hard to dispute those claims.
Port Stanley residents, fishermen and business owners remain hopeful. “So I have
to wash zebra mussels off my boat,” said one fisherman, “It’s not the
end of the world.” Bates even commented on the beauty of the white powder left behind
when zebra mussels break down.
Without a doubt, local optimism in Port Stanley appears to prevail over scientific studies — if
only for the moment. Mackie’s restaurant employees continue to prepare 25 to 30 75-pound
bags of potatoes each Sunday; Bates keeps scooping chocolate brownie meltdown for eager
customers; and a stunning life-size mural of a lighthouse set amid a bright blue lake covers
the oil refinery buildings. It is as though citizens of Port Stanley believe a can of paint
and a paintbrush can disguise the evils lurking just at the edge of the community.
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