“We were looking for seal holes. My dad was
waiting near one. We’d been out for hours. I was driving
around, and we were just about to head home but my dad
saw something far away. It was a polar bear.” Daniel Flaherty
is recounting how, on his fifteenth birthday two days ago,
he aimed his father’s rifle and shot a bear. Flaherty’s father,
Raymond Mercredi — a Saskatchewan Cree-Chipewyan
who’s been here for 30 years — spent hours today marinating
wild meat and simmering it in a rich gravy. He has
invited half the town to his spacious home to enjoy a feast
of polar bear and muskox, spaghetti and hot dogs. Stickyfaced
toddlers waddle about, teenage girls muster on the
couch in T-shirts and jeans, boys play hand-held video
games, and the front door constantly swings open for new
arrivals. Flaherty, a grade nine student, looks more rapper than hunter: baggy jeans, hoodie, ball
cap, sneakers. Sure he’s proud of con -
quer ing the world’s largest land predator,
but for dinner, he prefers spaghetti.
There are a little more than a dozen
individual polar bear populations in
Canada, according to Ian Stirling,
one of the world’s leading polar bear
researchers. They range from the
Beaufort Sea to Davis Strait and from
the High Arctic to Hudson Bay. An
emeritus scientist with Environment
Canada and adjunct professor at the
University of Alberta, Stirling has studied
polar bears, seals and the impacts of climate change for
four decades, paying particular attention to the bears’ southern
range in western Hudson Bay, where significantly less
ice — and therefore less access to seals, their main food
source — means bears there are now smaller, less healthy
and having fewer cubs.
Hunting is an essential part of Inuit life. Illustrated left is the seasonal cycles that determine what foods people in the North eat.
He started noticing problems in the mid-1990s. “There
were some fluctuations within the data,” he says, “but it was
a long-term, unidirectional trend, and I began to suspect
climate change.” By 1997, the hypothesis became fact. “And
all the data we’ve collected in the 10 years since then have
been consistent with everything we said back then. Sadly.”
The western Hudson Bay population is clearly dwindling.
From 1987 to 2004, it has shrunk to 935 from 1,200.
‘I think Inuit are realizing there's not a lot they can do to
make the changes needed, and the world community is
not addressing these issues,’ says Mary Simon.
The polar bear is the Arctic’s iconic symbol. Its predicted
demise not only put eco-celeb Leonardo DiCaprio’s natty
knickers in knot but convinced the U.S. government to
label polar bears “threatened” under the Endangered Species
Act, thereby preventing American sport hunters from dropping
$30,000 a shot in northern communities to bring
home a hide.
Aside from Stirling’s bears and the Beaufort Sea populations,
which are also in decline, it’s unclear how other groups are faring. Research in remote, cold places with sporadic air
service is prohibitively expensive. High Arctic hunters report
more bears than ever and claim there’s no crisis. Stirling says
bears at higher latitudes might be healthier because plenty of
sea ice still forms annually, seals can make dens and the
bears have a platform from which to hunt. But if you believe
the models that project continuous Arctic warming and
corresponding sea ice depletion, “then I think things don’t
look good,” says Stirling, and that’s troubling for some Inuit
with whom he’s worked. “It worries and confuses a lot of
them, especially older people. They’re having a hard enough
time trying to pass on traditions, and with less opportunity,
what are they going to do?”
Canada has lost, on average, three percent of its sea ice
every year for the past 30 years — eight percent, if you
measure only the summer minimums, according to
Christophe Kinnard, a glaciologist with the Geological
Survey of Canada. Not long ago, scientists predicted the
Arctic Ocean would be ice-free in summer by 2100. Now
it could be 2030 or sooner.
Climate change impacts the sea ice in many complex and
interconnected ways, and some conditions compound others.
Energy trapped in the atmosphere by greenhouse gases
affects wind formation and direction, explains Kinnard, and
wind impacts ocean currents. More warm water from the
Atlantic Ocean is migrating to the Arctic, for example, eroding
ice from below, while warmer air thins it from above.
Wind and currents crack it and move it around, creating open
water, which absorbs more heat from the sun than does ice
— accelerating the melt. Sometimes these conditions lead to
more abrupt alterations. In 2005, a 66-square-kilometre slab
of ice broke off from the Ayles Ice Shelf on the northern coast
of Ellesmere, creating a floating ice island slightly larger than
Manhattan. And in July, a four-square-kilometre chunk split
from the neighbouring Ward Hunt Ice Shelf.
“The loss of sea ice is stunning,” says Kinnard. “When I
looked at the maps of the Arctic Ocean from summer 2007,
I remember feeling scared. Maybe scared is not the right word.
Impressed.” Last year was the northern hemisphere’s warmest
year since record-keeping began in 1880. Arctic Ocean ice was
39 percent smaller in 2007 than the previous 20-year average.
“You see these data,” he says, “and always, as a scientist, you
have to think, is this real? Is it possible that it’s something else?
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But when it’s so fast and so big, it looks
like a clear sign to me.”
There are other signs. In the planet’s
geological continuum, we’re in the middle
of an interglacial period, and according
to the Earth’s orbital and rotational
elements, which are cyclical, we should
be cooling toward its next ice age in
3,000 to 5,000 years. But it’s getting
warmer, instead.
I've been to Grise Fiord just after a Narwhal slaughter. It was an amazing sight to see the butchered whales seasoning in the open air and the tusks being cleaned by the bacteria in the water. It is a beautiful, tranquil place.
Submitted by SEASIDESUE on Monday, February 07, 2011
What happened to the Beluga trapped in the ice was sad. The video made me feel terrible for these whales who are being killed because they can not get away. I know this was some time back but it is still a sad sight. I lived in the north when this was going on.
Submitted by Lori on Monday, October 06, 2008
Having lived in Grise Fiord the portion of the article "Sunlight 24-hour daylight from May to August 24-hour darkness from October to early February" is not correct. The last sun is seen Nov 3rd and then peeks over the horizon on Feb 11th. Between these dates there is about 10 days of twilight before total darkness sets in.
Submitted by George on Sunday, October 05, 2008
Lisa Gregoire has once again provided your readers with experiences of yet another adventure. She puts you right there along with her. Well done as usual.
Submitted by Paula Wallace on Wednesday, September 17, 2008
Stunning, beautiful photographs!
Submitted by Kelly Vandenberg on Tuesday, September 16, 2008