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magazine / mj07
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May/June 2007 issue |
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FEATURE
Ghost coast
Kayaking the foreboding fiords of Torngat Mountains National Park
Story and photography by Jerry Kobalenko
It is four in the morning on July 2, 2006, as the crane
on the cruise ship Lyubov Orlova lowers us into the water
near tiny Kohlmeister Island, at the northern tip of
Labrador. The passengers have all risen early to see us off.
A German documentary crew films our departure, in case
we disappear and become news.
It's a reasonable gamble. The Torngat Mountains have witnessed
many disappearances and disasters over the years. One
traveller in the 1800s aptly described northern Labrador as
"filled with rage and destruction" - not exactly an ideal place
for a frail skin kayak. Inuit have travelled here for centuries, but
I know of only three or four modern parties that have paddled
the whole ghostly coast, and each of them tells a horror story.The Torngat Mountains have witnessed
many disappearances and disasters over the years. One
traveller in the 1800s aptly described northern Labrador as
"filled with rage and destruction" - not exactly an ideal place
for a frail skin kayak. Inuit have travelled here for centuries, but
I know of only three or four modern parties that have paddled
the whole ghostly coast, and each of them tells a horror story.
For the rest of this story, visit your local newsstand or go to our store to buy this issue.
Related stories:
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In Depth: Torngat Mountains
Take a closer look at Canada's newest national park. Take a
virtual tour of Labrador's Torngat Mountains National Park Reserve and discover the region's
unspoiled wilderness. Learn about Labrador's early explorers and find out how Canadian
Geographic contributor Jerry Kobalenko and his wife Sasha became the park's first official visitors.
Watch video of the Kobalenkos' trip, visit our online photo gallery and learn about polar
bears and other wildlife in the area.
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