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magazine / jf06
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January/February 2006 issue |
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Music under the midnight sun
The Dawson City Music Festival blends small-town
charm with big-time talent for a dizzying weekend dance party in
Klondike country
Story
and photography by Margo Pfeiff
On a sunny Friday afternoon in July, I join an audience sprawled on the grassy
banks of the Yukon River, a swift, deep green artery that flows through Dawson
and once brought miners here to seek their fortunes. Today's crowd has come
for Dawson's other abundant resource — music. The dance-inducing pop
of Toronto's The Sadies quickly changes pace to the breathy, syncopated panting
and grunting of Nunavut's Tanya Tagaq Gillis. The 30-year-old Cambridge Bay
native is what one of her colleagues calls "a rock 'n' roll throat-singer." Unlike
traditional Inuit throat-singers who perform in pairs, Gillis is a solo act.
Her primal, sensual tones and the sinuous undulation of her live performances
have piqued the interest of Icelandic legend Björk, with whom she has
toured and recorded. Gillis dazzles the riverside crowd as well. "When
Tanya finishes performing," a bystander observes as Gillis wraps up her
set with a moan and a sigh, "the audience needs a cigarette."
For one weekend every July for the past 26 years, Dawson, a tiny Yukon outpost
280 kilometres shy of the Arctic Circle, has thrown an extraordinary town party.
The stars are an impressive repertoire of Canadian musicians who vie for the
chance to head to Klondike country to take part in the Dawson City Music Festival,
a uniquely Northern event that blends small-town charm with break-out talent.
The music varies from Celtic to rap, folk to jazz and rockabilly. Performers
come from across Canada, though about half are Yukoners. For the first time,
the 2005 festival featured musicians from all three territories, as well as
Alaska and Iceland.
As it has been since the gold rush, Dawson is a summertime boom town. Spring
thaw brings a steady stream of students seeking paycheques, northern-lights
watchers and part-time miners with dreams of pay dirt. Then, for one jam-packed
weekend, the town is overwhelmed with music lovers. The festival is the summer's
biggest event, drawing thousands of fans from all over North America and as
far away as Europe and Australia and rendering the town's 1,800 permanent residents
a temporary minority. Visitors arrive with backpacks or guitar cases strapped
to their backs, in muddy RVs, canoes on rooftops, or on mountain bikes. They
are tattooed, blue-rinsed, tie-dyed, Tilley-Hatted, hiking-booted and flip-flopped.
Hotels have been booked solid for months and the baseball pitch outside town
sprouts a tent city.
For the rest of this story, visit your local newsstand or go to our store to buy this issue.
For related stories, facts and figures, visit CG’s Explorer Online
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