magazine / apr11
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| Framed by an ice cave, Jerry Kobalenko (ABOVE, in front, and
BELOW) and Bob Cochran pull sleds on the sea ice near Cape Norton Shaw, Ellesmere Island, Nunavut, in 2007. (Photo: Jerry Kobalenko) |
SPEAKER SERIES
Arctic high
Jerry Kobalenko
Obsession takes many forms, but for most people, it usually doesn’t involve hauling a 100-kilogram sled for weeks
at a time across some of the coldest, most remote terrain on Earth. But Jerry Kobalenko is not most people. A 53-year old
writer and photographer based in Canmore, Alta., Kobalenko has chalked up
more kilometres of self-propelled High Arctic travel over the past 27 years than anyone alive. It has vaulted him into the same company
as explorers Fridtjof Nansen and Roald Amundsen, the legendary Greenland guide Nukapinguaq and a handful of all-but-unknown RCMP
patrollers who, with their Inuit guides, dogsledded stupendous distances in the 1920s and early 1930s to enforce Canadian sovereignty
in the Arctic. “They would travel three-quarters of the way across the Arctic and back in a single season and make it
sound easy,” says Kobalenko. “Now, those were travellers.”
Kobalenko’s Arctic career began in 1984 when, at 27, he completed a 600-kilometre winter trek across central
Labrador, just to get a taste of extreme solo sledding. That 46-day inauguration eventually led him to explore
Nunavut’s Ellesmere, Axel Heiberg and Devon islands. Since then, the region’s snowy mountains, endless icefields,
glaciers, fiords and meadows — many of which are found in Ellesmere’s Quttinirpaaq National Park — have
captivated him and have been featured in his books Arctic Eden and The Horizontal Everest. He flies there as
often as he can — so far, it’s 35 expeditions and counting — to photograph the land
and wildlife, seek out prehistoric Paleo-Eskimo tent rings and ponder on the cairns and dilapidated shacks left
by previous expeditions.
Kobalenko will share his adventures in the Arctic, including some of Canada’s national parks, on April 27 in Ottawa, as part of The
Royal Canadian Geographical Society’s Speaker Series.
Kobalenko’s motivation for heading north, unlike some who have sought fame and fortune, is mainly to
experience the solitude of the High Arctic’s austerely beautiful landscape. Given the
natural glories of the region, including 24-hour sunlight from April to late August, it both amuses and discourages
him that many armchair travellers discount polar journeys outside the traditional big-name
destinations.
“To the public and to the expedition world, it seems that the only two polar trips are the North Pole and the South Pole, and everything
else is insignificant,” says Kobalenko. “I’ve travelled tens of thousands of kilometres in the Arctic and I’ve barely scratched
the surface. I could spend lifetimes never retracing my route.”
— Alec Ross
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RESEARCH
Pipeline clash
Sarah Panofsky
(Photo: Andrew Querner)
Sarah Panofsky was drawn
last summer to the
Wet’suwet’en’s passionate
opposition to the Enbridge
Northern Gateway Project,
which will see an average of
525,000 barrels of oil a day
transported across the First
Nation’s traditional territory
around Smithers, in central British Columbia. The
proposed twin pipelines will
run between the Edmonton
area and a marine terminal
in Kitimat, B.C.
A master’s student of human
geography at the University of
British Columbia, Panofsky
is examining how the concerns of the
Wet’suwet’en are being
addressed through an environmental
assessment process
that will determine the fate
of the project. Her thesis
research has received financial
assistance from The Royal
Canadian Geographical
Society.
At hearings last August and
September in Kitimat and
Prince George, B.C., Panofsky
witnessed the Wet’suwet’en
chiefs’ compelling presentations
on the adverse impacts
a pipeline will have on the
land and wildlife. “There is
such a clash of different world
views,” she says, adding that
the environmental assessment
is a complex process skewed
in favour of industry.
To share what she has
learned, Panofsky is producing
a documentary film in
collaboration with the Office
of the Wet’suwet’en. She
hopes the film will bring to
light the limitations of the
environmental assessment in
fully appreciating the repercussions
of the proposed
pipeline on the community.
— Catherine Labelle
MAPPING
Poster-perfect
To honour the centennial of Parks Canada — the first
national park system in the world — Canadian Geographic
has produced a poster map (above), in collaboration with
Parks Canada. It highlights the agency’s evolution through
the creation of 42 national parks, 4 national marine conservation
areas and 167 national historic sites.
The natural splendour of our national parks and historic
sites will also be displayed in a photography exhibition featuring
images published in Canadian Geographic over its 81-year
history. The exhibition will open in the United Kingdom later
this year before touring Europe.
A journal’s incredible journey
Photo: Randy Hogg
To mark 70 years of Australian-Canadian diplomatic relations,
a replica of the 1766 Newfoundland Journal of Sir Joseph Banks
(RIGHT) was presented to Newfoundland and Labrador’s
Minister of Tourism, Culture and Recreation Terry French by
Australian High Commissioner to Canada Justin Brown at a
ceremony in St. John’s
in November. A British
naturalist and botanist,
Banks documented the
flora and fauna of what
is now Newfoundland.
The original diary
remains in the State
Library of South
Australia, in Adelaide.
GEO-LITERACY
A lifelong passion for geography
Photo courtesy Stuart Semple
Now in his 55th year of
teaching, Stuart Semple
has received the 2010
Geographic Literacy Award from the Canadian Council
for Geographic Education (CCGE). An adjunct professor
of geography at Mount
Allison University, in
Sackville, N.B., Semple
(right) has taught geography
in Canada and his native
Australia and has trained
about 500 Canadian geography
teachers, as well as
International Baccalaureate
teachers in Africa, North
America and Europe.
“In many ways, I consider
the award the pinnacle of my
career,” says Semple, who
helped found the CCGE in
1993. “I am deeply honoured
that my work has been recognized
in this way and remain
as enthusiastic about geography
as when I began.”
The award includes $5,000
from National Geographic’s
Education Foundation, which
Semple has donated to create a scholarship that will be
given annually to a university
student who wishes to pursue
a bachelor of education in
Atlantic Canada to teach
geography or social studies.
— Julia Maffett
EXPEDITIONS
Permafrost on defrost
Antoni Lewkowicz has
seen the not so subtle
signs of warming permafrost
in Canada’s North: a buckling
Yukon highway and the
aftermath of a landslide
near Carmacks, in southern
Yukon, that formed a bowl
about 30 metres deep,
dumped debris into a salmonfishing
river and destroyed
a forest at the bottom of a
valley. While it’s clear that
climate change is affecting
this frozen layer of ground
throughout the Arctic, it is
difficult to detect where and
how fast it is thawing until
after it has happened, says
the University of Ottawa
geography professor, who has
studied permafrost for the
past 35 years. “Our ability
to predict how long it will
take,” he says, “and where it
will take place is limited.”
As part of a long-term study
on changes in permafrost
conditions, Lewkowicz and
graduate students Christina
Miceli and Max Duguay set
up monitoring stations last
summer at 10 sites along a
1,300-kilometre stretch of the Alaska Highway between
Fort St. John, B.C., and
Whitehorse. Lewkowicz
was awarded the $25,000
Expedition of the Year for
2010 from The Royal
Canadian Geographical
Society, financed by the
RBC Blue Water Project.
The sites were chosen
along the same stretch of
highway studied by permafrost
expert Roger Brown
in 1964. Permafrost has since
disappeared at half the sites
where it was found in
Brown’s survey. Nine of the
10 locations monitored by Lewkowicz and his students
have a thin layer of permafrost
— less than 10 metres thick
— and are therefore very
sensitive to climate change.
“It could be that the permafrost
at these sites will disappear
even in my lifetime,”
says Lewkowicz.
The goal of the research
is to better understand how
thinning permafrost will
affect the North’s ecology and
freshwater resources, as well as
infrastructure like roads and
pipelines, and how it can precipitate
natural hazards such
as landslides. “It’s only by
doing this kind of long-term
project that we will get the
answers concerning how fast
permafrost will thaw,” says
Lewkowicz. “The Society and
the RBC Blue Water Project
are investing in work that will
carry on for a long time.”
— Monique Roy-Sole
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