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Victoria to Nanaimo
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Long, dry summers and mild winters have lured people to southern Vancouver Island for thousands of years.
No wonder it is Canada's retirement capitol. Some find it odd to have the capital isolated from the metro-polis of the Lower Mainland. Victoria became the capital


Victoria to Nanaimo

 

in 1868, just two years after the colonies of Vancouver Island and British Columbia were united. Much to Governor Seymour's chagrin, his Legislative Council opted for the comforts of Victoria over the muddy streets of New Westminster (aka Stump City). Vancouver was not yet on the map.

The route from Victoria to Nanaimo is entirely within the dry Coastal Douglas-fir Zone, which lies in the rain shadow of the Olympic and Vancouver Island mountains. Before development, much of Victoria had a savannah-like mix of open forest and grassland, with Douglas-fir, Garry oak, arbutus and lush spring meadows. Most of this saaniche (see Ecopoint 103, Swan Lake) ecosystem is now concrete, pavement, crops or pasture. Victoria's population is growing rapidly, adding pressure on food production, roads, water supply, open space and other amenities that, until recently, have been taken for granted. These in turn put pressure on natural ecosystems.

On leaving the dry lowlands around Victoria, the Trans Canada Highway (TCH) passes through the damp gorge of Goldstream River, boasting huge redcedars and bigleaf maples. The highway climbs rapidly through forests of cedar, Douglas-fir and grand fir to emerge in a more open forest of Douglas-fir and the red-barked arbutus. Arbutus is Canada's only evergreen hardwood tree. It copes well with shallow soils, but so does yellow-flowered Scotch broom, an invasive species that resists the "broom pulls"; organized by local environmental groups. Beyond Malahat summit, the highway descends into rolling lowlands that lie between the Vancouver Island's mountains and the Strait of Georgia. In the mid-1800s, lowland forests were cleared to create some of the finest farmland available in the Pacific Northwest. But it was coal, lumber and a railway that generated enough wealth to change the Vancouver Island settlements into towns and cities.

The Esquimalt and Nanaimo (E&N) Railway had a great effect throughout the eastern part of Vancouver Island, quickly moving produce to Victoria for consumption and trade. But a greater, more lasting effect resulted from the terms under which the railway was constructed. For building the E&N Railway, coal magnates Robert and James Dunsmuir received one of the most valuable land grants ever made to a railway: some 850,000 hectares of choice forest land covering over one-quarter of Vancouver Island. Almost all the land visible from the TCH between Victoria and Nanaimo, except where parks have been established, has been in private hands ever since.